Travel Journal- Italy
Day 1- Rome (Roma)
Stepping out of the airport and into the metropolis that is Rome, the “Eternal City” I am hit with an overwhelming olfactory sensation of diesel fuel, cigarette smoke, sweet warm honey covered brioche and freshly baked breads… Ahhhh Rome. It is amazing how a familiar scent can trigger vivid memories and elicit emotional responses. After a sixteen hour plane ride cramped into coach class with 350 strangers, no shower, barely edible food and one very fussy baby I am ready for a warm shower, a nap, and a vat of caffeine. However, my nose has other plans. With this familiar city scent tingling my senses, I feel rejuvenated and a yearning to dive right into the adventure of exploring the city that lies ahead. I want to see all that is new and all that has changed in the 12 years since I lived in Italy.
Finding our hotel, the “Welcome Residence” hotel turned out to be a tiny debacle. Thane and I had a map of the area but still managed to pass by the hotel three times before I remembered that instead of the metal street signs on poles like we are accustom to back home in Florida, often the older buildings of Rome have the street name carved into a stone plaque high on the corner of the building, if there is any sign at all. There isn’t always a consistency when it comes to street demarcation. We could go for blocks before finding any form of signage signifying where we were. Once we discovered we were on the right street, it was a simple task of finding the hotel… or so we thought. Nothing even resembling a hotel, stood out to us. In place of a flashing neon sign or a giant billboard proclaiming “Welcome Residence, enter here” there is a beautifully carved, modest set of tall thin wooden doors welcoming us to our temporary abode. We did not even realize that it was a hotel until we passed through the doors and into the grand foyer. Personally, I find the unobtrusive, understated signage more aesthetically pleasing, but it sure makes for a difficult time trying to locate places being unfamiliar with the area.
Finally, we dropped our backpacks in the hotel’s luggage room, and Thane and I headed off on our Roman Holiday! We of course hit all of the usual tourist attractions: the Coliseum and the Roman Forum. We forwent the public transportation and decided to walk giving us the luxury of stopping in shops and gelaterias along the way. Yum! Mango gelato, nutella gelato, rice gelato, lemon sorbetto, all so heavenly! We tried so many flavors we had belly aches before we reached our first destination, the Coliseum.
Thane, of course, loved the Coliseum. What man wouldn’t? What is not to love about a gigantic ancient sports arena? Of course, there was no Christian slaughtering scheduled for today so we settled for the headphone tour. I find it curious that two of the most well known icons of Rome are the Coliseum, a place where so many Christians were slaughtered, and, Vatican City (technically its own city, but resides in the heart of Rome), the home of the Pope, head of the Catholic Church, one of the largest Christian denominations. I think if I were the Pope back when this turn of events occurred, I would have demolished the Coliseum and built something on top of it. I wonder why it was allowed to stand and dominate the landscape.
On the way to the Forum, we passed a huge arch, the “Arch of Titus”, which is completely surrounded by gates so no one may touch or pass through the arch. As a tourist, a blocked off landmark is frustrating. It is difficult to get the true effect of the work. An arch is meant to be walked under in order to appreciate its true vastness and stature, and to get the full effect of what the designer originally intended it to achieve. But ancient buildings and landmarks are often in need of repair or restoration so with a sigh of understanding we take our pictures and move on to the Roman Forum.
The Roman Forum is vast and so full of history, but sadly little remains of the once great city center but ruble and ruin. As we were walking through the Forum we happened to overhear two of the most interesting tidbits from a nearby tour guide. She was talking about the green dots on the ground. We looked down to notice we were stepping on a few of these dots. The tour guide said they were copper coins that melted onto the stones in the 1400’s while Nero watched Rome burn. She also pointed out a plant that was growing nearby, the acanthus plant. It turns out that the leaves of this plant are the same leaves carved into the capitals of Corinthian columns that adorn so many buildings world wide.
Note to self: must remember to stop at a grocery store (negozio di alimentari) to pick up drinks and snacks before visiting the sights. The vendors around the sights price gouge. $3.50 for one can of Coke and about the same for a small bottle of no name water from a man with a cart outside the Coliseum. Ouch! I don’t think Disney even charges that much!
*The cost of one liter of a no name spring water in the grocery store is about a quarter, and for one liter of San Pellegrino it is about a dollar.
Day 2- Vatican City (Città del Vaticano)
It’s our first morning in Italy. I can tell it is going to be a beautiful May day. The sun is so bright it is peaking through the wooden shutters. I can hear the occasional car zip past, beeping its horn (something the Italians are not timid to use) echoing down the almost deserted side street our room faces. Mostly, I hear the occasional chattering and heel clicking of pedestrians walking down the street below. I can’t resist, I hop out of bed like a kid on Christmas morning and toss open the shutters and throw open the window (something you can no longer do in a hotel back home), to bask in the bright morning light. Ahhhh, the temperature is a mild 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit with little to no humidity. Hello Italy!! I’m back!
Staring out from my window high atop the city street, I detect a silly grin stretching across my face as a giddy feeling spreading from head to toe. I just can’t help it! I watch the locals pass by on their way to whatever destination lay ahead. They don muted, darker colors; nothing bright, nothing ostentatious, and never white shoes. Glancing over my shoulder, I notice my very comfortable bright white New Balance tennis shoes; no wonder they say it is so easy to spot an American tourist.
I decide on a nice long soak in the luxurious Jacuzzi tub before hitting the streets of Rome. However, I was quickly reminded, by the short supply of hot water that the Italian people, in general, do not enjoy the long hot showers or soaks in the tub that many Americans do. I was once told, years ago, by Davide, the concierge of the pension where I lived, that Italians do not understand why the Americans were so fond of long hot showers or spending so much time in a tub stewing in their own filth. I remember thinking, how ironic since the ancient Romans so loved their communal baths where they went to soak in not only their own filth, but everyone else’s as well.
While soaking I ponder on the subject of Italian bathrooms. They have always given me a chuckle. There is such a variation in tub, shower, and toilet designs. But there is one constant, the bathroom is always tiny. A Jacuzzi tub is quite the coup for a hotel in Italy. For most places I have traveled in Italy, tubs are a luxury rarely seen. Actually, this may be the first tub I have seen in Italy, come to think about it. The showers in Italy, however, come in all different shapes and sizes and can range anywhere from a tiny enclosed stall (which are the closest to what we have in the US), to nothing more than a shower head sticking out of the wall directly above the toilet. That one baffled me for a while until I realized the entire room was tiled and the floor slanted slightly to a drain in the middle of the floor. I had a friend in Florence whose tub was a small knee deep basin with a drain that was barely large enough for a small person to squat down into, but not actually sit. The shower head was extendable so aiming it into the basin while showering was important in order to avoid having to wipe down the entire bathroom.
Ok, so after a quick breakfast of brioche and café, we are off to Vatican City to see Il Papa (the Pope). The Vatican is immense. You could spend days surveying and studying the centuries of treasures (Egyptian, Etruscan, Greek, etc.), not including the areas that are closed off to the public. In planning our trip Thane and I knew we would have to cherry pick the pieces most important to us to see and then squeeze in what ever else we could in a day. So like many other tourists we made a point to see the Sistine Chapel and Rafael’s Room. Having been an Art History major as an undergrad, I almost cried when I noticed some of the other masterpieces we were zipping past on our way to the Sistine Chapel and Rafael’s Room. I wanted to see them all, but we had a schedule to keep and a train to Southern Italy to catch.
Day 3- The Island of Capri (Isola di Capri)
Today we arrive in Capri from Naples (Napoli) on a hydrofoil. I did get motion sick but it’s still very cool. I was glad when we were back on solid ground, the Island of Capri. It is every bit as stunning as the photos I have seen; stone walls covered in bright fuchsia bougainvillea, lemon trees, palm trees, mountain side villas, and the gorgeous deep blue sea as far as the eye could see.
Getting around the island is such an adventure, even with a local doing the driving. Our driver, Paulo, zipped up the hills, through the narrow, winding roads and slammed on the brakes any time canine, feline or pedestrian leisurely strolled into the street, tossing us and the other 2-3 wide-eyed tourists crammed into our tiny van (about half the size of the minivans we see everyday here in the US) around. Paulo and I joked that driving on the island is like a video game where all kinds of obstacles popped up when you least expect them. When we arrived to our destination safely he turned to me and said “GAME OVER, YOU WIN!”
Thane and I couldn’t wait to run across the soft sandy beaches a dive into the Mediterranean Sea. So, as soon as we arrive at the “Hotel Webber”, we drop our bags in our room, pull on our swimsuits, and race down the winding staircases to the rocky beach. Huh? Yep, these be rocky beaches, Matey. Grey-white pebbles, rocks and even some boulders with plants growing on top. The rocks pave the way into the water and are really rough on the feet making it difficult to walk. The sharp drop (about 6 inches for every foot you stepped out) didn’t help either. This would have been a good time to have a pair of Aquasox to protect our feet. Ok, so the beach is rocky and the water is sub zero temperature but it is still absolutely gorgeous!
We spot a couple of kids jumping off a huge boulder into the water and figure we should give it a try. Climbing the boulder proves to be more challenging than expected. There are no stairs or ladders; it’s like scaling a small mountain. In place of stairs there is a thick chain bolted to the side of the boulder which we use for leverage to pull ourselves up by placing our feet in the crevices of the boulders surface. Again, foot protection would be helpful here. Maybe we will rent a boat tomorrow.
Day 4- Capri
Ahhh, it’s another glorious bright sunny day. Now, this is La Dolce Vita (the sweet life)! We chartered a private boat to circle once around the island and make one stop at the Blue Grotto. The Blue Grotto is a cave that is partially submerged allowing the sunlight to refract through the submerged cave opening to light the water from underneath. The color is the most amazing shade of glowing blue! The opening to the cave was so small that we had to get into a small row boat and lay down in order to go through the mouth of the cave. Our rowboat captain had to pull on a thick chain to get the boat through the mouth. Once inside the grotto we floated around in the cool darkness listening to the rowboat captain croon ‘O’ solo Mio’ while admiring the glowing blue water. I could stay all day.
We spent the rest of the day shopping in the city center. There is a gorgeous high end area with names like Versace, Armani, Gucci, and Dolce & Gabbana, and then there is a separate area for everyone else. The later is much more touristy and less expensive, but had gorgeous merchandise all the same. I loved the hand painted ceramic tiles, terracotta pottery, and red coral jewelry. And we could not leave without buying Limoncello for everyone we know.
This ain’t no Olive Garden
I think Thane is shocked at how different food in Italy is from the Italian food he has grown up with (Olive Garden, Pizza Hut, and Chef Boyardee). I think it really hit him today when I ordered a salad and got a bowl of nothing but white iceberg lettuce with olive oil drizzled on top. I had a feeling this might be the case and gave him a heads up before we left the states so he wouldn’t be caught off guard. But that isn’t really something I could prepare him for just by telling him it would be different.
I remember my first real Italian food experience. I thought ordering a pizza would be safe. I could not have been more wrong. I ordered my usual pepperoni and mushroom pizza. I was sure Pizza Hut was pretty authentic. HA, HA! What I expected; a thick crust, pepperoni (meat) and mushroom (canned), is not what I received. The crust was a light flour dough, so paper thin that it tore when I tried to pull it apart. The mushrooms were fresh not canned and the pepperoni was not meat but small hot peppers. It did not take me long to figure things out. Of course, previously living in Italy has spoiled me, I have not eaten Olive garden or Pizza Hut since.
Day 5 – Traveling Day
Today is a traveling day. We must leave our island paradise and travel from Capri to Sorrento via Hydrofoil, then to Pompeii by bus, and finally to Venice via overnight train. We made sure we reserved a sleeper car.
Our concierge called ahead to Venice to help us book our next hotel room. We were absolutely elated when he told us that they had an upgraded room with a view, we’d be able to see Piazza San Marco from our window for only $40 more. We of course jumped on that.
The night train will arrive in Venice at 5:30 am. After much debate Thane and I agreed sleeping on the train would be beneficial since neither of us wanted to use up another day of our trip just sitting on the train, regardless of how pretty the scenery is zipping by at a gazillion km an hour. The train is also cheaper than a hotel; there is just no shower.
The sleeper car is actually clean and not too bad. There were fresh sheets sewn together on two sides like a pouch you could sip into and a new pillow waiting for us. They even through in toilet seat covers, a moist towelette, and paper slippers for walking around in the train car.
Day 6– Venice (Venezia)
5:30 am, for two night people this is about as much torture as we can handle. This is one time I would not have minded the train being late so I could have slept a little more. We need to find some of that strong, rich Italian coffee, quickly. We head out toward the water taxis and water buses but none are running yet. They must be night people too.
Well, we have a long walk ahead of us but maybe we can find a nice little café to have a coffee and brioche until our hotel will take us in. Maybe we should head in the direction of Piazza San Marco to watch the sunrise on the water.
No luck finding a caffeine hook up. Not even the street vendors are stirring.
As we continue to walk I couldn’t help but notice the calm stillness of the early morning. The pitch darkness, exaggerated by the tall buildings situated closely together, block out any light cast by the moon or the stars. It’s peaceful and… raining. It is at just that moment that I realized how very few awnings there are to stand under on the streets of Venice. We found an open door way leading to a staircase and ducked into it as the deluge began. The sunrise will have to wait for another day.
We finally arrive at the hotel, change out of our wet clothes, and get ready to head out to see the Piazza San Marco, when we remember that we have a view from one of our windows. Tearing open the drapes we crane our necks to see how close we really are. Where is it? We check and recheck all we can see is the tippy-top of bell tower of Piazza San Marco. There must be a mistake. Nope, there’s no mistake. It turns out this is the upgrade room. The rooms below have a view of only the walls and windows of the neighboring building, if they have windows at all. Wow, it is amazing what some people consider a room with a view.
Venice is definitely a unique city. Not only is it built on water but there are no cars, just boats: water taxis, water buses, a FedEx delivery boat, and of course gondolas. And the boats don’t just drop people at a dock. Many homes, businesses; even churches have doors or stairs that go right down to the water. I think that would be so cool to pull right up to my front door in a boat and just hop right out. I wonder what they would do in a flood.
Day 7 – Florence (Firenze)
This is the perfect end to a great vacation. Florence was my home away from home 12 years ago while I studied Art History, Italian language and culture. I spent the day visiting some of my favorite restaurants, stores, and hangouts. I also showed Thane where I lived and where I went to school; telling him many stories along the way.
Day 8 – Rome and Home
Return to Rome to fly home with new pictures, new experiences, and new memories.